Gear reviews and informations

Directly from our passion for climbing comes our passion for all the climbing gear!!! We used to go shopping each time we were close to a climbing store… Our secret spot was in New Hamshire near Mount Washington… Her we present to you some hint on how to use some gear we like or review of material most of it we bought because of our interest of that new device! We love to test, analyze and try all the gear that come to us and serve in Big Wall climbing, aid climbing or rope solo climbing! Be aware there is often a new review on the page! 

This is a disclaimer. We are not paid for gear review or we will mention it! Neither that we are given all that gear, altough most of the time we just buy it for fun! All the information that you will see here is from our opinion. Its not made to be taken as advice on how you should use or act with the material. Please use you own judgement! Make sure your safe while you climb! This is good for all the information found on this website and on our You Tube channel. Stay safe!

Comment on Alex Honnold TR solo technique

In this video:

My goal is to give pointers to climbers to keep them safer. This is an extract from “The Players’ Tribune” VERY GOOD video: https://youtu.be/OX7NAlLkLs4 (at 2:31).

Please tell me what YOU think!

Test Of Lead Climbing Solo Devices (Part 2)

In this video:

Soloist + (Grigri 1, Grigri 2, Eddy: NOT MADE for lead solo) With a 50 kg weight, some upside-down falls, etc.

PART 1 HERE: https://youtu.be/dXc-7s6ielo

Did you learn something AGAIN ??

Test Of Lead Climbing Solo Devices (Part 1)

In this video:

Silent Partner, Soloist + (Grigri 1, Grigri 2, Eddy: NOT MADE for lead solo)
Only 2 survive THIS test with 10 kg. Could you guess what they are ??
Rope is a mid-life 10 mm Mammut Galaxy Dry rope.

Weight and size comparison for portaledges

Here is a basic if you are shopping for a ledge. Runout Custom ultralight portal edge, Durango Sewing Solutions D4 portaledge, Metolius bombshelter portal edge or Black Diamond cliff cabana with fly?

D4 portaledge installation – Durango Sewing Solutions model

In this video :

Setup of the D4 portaledge by Durango Sewing Solutions
Thanks John Deuce Middendorf and Barry Ward to let me try the Proto X with bullet joiners.
You can find the latest production version of the portaledge at bigwallgear.com

To pre-order one reach out to Durango Sewing Solution 

Cam Hooks – A pretty in-depth comparison of models

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How to free a stucked ascender

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How I setup my portaledge while suspended

In this video I do the simulation of the situation on a vertical big wall with a single point of attachment. I setup my Metolius double bomb shelter portaledge and put it back in the bag. This is a training I did many time to prepare to climb a big wall. I hope you learn from it ! Thanks for watching. By the way the knot is a double overhand knot… Forgive my english 😎

Other videos: More tips and tricks on how to assemble a ledge… (A5-TNF single but tricks apply to most ledges)
English: https://youtu.be/CuyxJuAU87o
French: https://youtu.be/Ty206ilFpNo

Top Rope solo with the new Rescucender from Petzl? Sketchy!!!!!!

Top Rope solo with the new Rescucender from Petzl? It is sketchy!! Here is a quick comparison between the Microcender, the Shunt and the new Rescucender. The spring in the unit is WEAK! Also the cam angle on the rope is steeper than the old Rescucender that is steeper than the Microcender. Therefore it does not grab as readily. My first impression is the new Petzl Rescucender is not going to be useful for me =(
Solo auto-assuré, corde fixe, rope grab, rock climbing

Best way to store aiders when rock climbing

Fastest way to store rock climbing étriers when switching from aid climbing to free climbing. Please tell me if you use this method already, you like it or if you think of a better way. The 3 mm cordelette is optional since you could use the grab loop. This is the method I always use in Yosemite on big walls, El Capitan, or speed climbing.

Rope Solo Anchoring to 2 bolts

Discussion after reading this Andy Kirkpatrick article:
https://andy-kirkpatrick.com/blog/view/clove-hitch-issue
(Thanks Tom to shoot me the question and www.verticallstore.com for the Kailas t-shirt!!!)

Sorry for not being well organized on this video. Next time I will do better I promise.

I talk about the use of the clove hitch, alpine butterfly, figure eight on a bight, sliding x with slings (requires 2 extra carabiners btw). I love my silent partner 🙂

Other videos: More tips and tricks on how to assemble a ledge… (A5-TNF single but tricks apply to most ledges)
English: https://youtu.be/CuyxJuAU87o
French: https://youtu.be/Ty206ilFpNo

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