Introduction

This document is more of a list for now. The counter-measures are explained through the course. Eventually I want to have more counter measures explained here. Also the residual risks. A lot similar to the Edelrid article mentionned below.

Note that the focus in this list (and the LRS one), is on the additional risks compared to partner-climbing.

My list here will be 100% adapted to TRS climbing. Focus will be on items different from partnered TR climbing.

You will notice a great similarity between this topic information and the article by Edelrid about LRS risk assessment, but a lot is common between TRS and LRS. You can read their article I annotated here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1DSA-mOJtLoDVmNZPHaBgcGy_xAnf43UjRvRDoQMxUvo/edit?usp=sharing

Or check their video here: https://youtu.be/mTTDRX6RTWc?si=aaNJBQYoFJPoxN2E

Sources of danger

Dangers come from different sources. We will organize the dangers in families of the source of danger:

1. Wilderness Risks
2. Health Risks
3. Lack of rescue solution and rescue chain
4. Attaching the rope to the anchor point (TRS)
5. Attaching the belay system to the harness (TRS)
6. Function of the belay system (TRS)
7. Medium impact forces
8. About the rope (TRS)

1- Wilderness Risks

1.1 Fall from Height

For sure this is the biggest danger. Tie-in when close to an edge. Use the methods shown in this course. Learn and do the “I Solo Home Safe buddy check” and the “3 steps transitions”. Use a backup!

1.2 Rockfall

Rockfall when being alone can have much worst consequences. Including Suspension trauma. (see health risks)

2- Health Risks

2.1 Suspension Syndrome

There is a blog article about it here https://blissclimbing.com/suspension-trauma-it-can-kill-you-in-just-6-minutes/

2- Lack of Rescue Solution and Rescue Chain

In rope solo, preparedness is key to prevent severe situations when things don’t go as planned. In case of an accident, there are two types: health issue or injuries. Know yourself. Get yourself checked and ask your family doctor about going climbing alone and see what she thinks! See the 2.1 Suspension Syndrome topic for a list of items to tick before heading out alone on your climbing adventure. On top of that, carry extra climbing gear to ascend a rope and make sure you have means to rappel. Following a wilderness first-aid course is highly recommended. Carrying the ten essentials can be a must. The more essentials you carry, the better your chances of survival if things don’t go as planned. I typically carry a whisle (Fox 40), a Bic lighter, a micro knife and some kevlar 1mm cord (acting as an aid climbing tie-off BODY WEIGHT ONLY, NO PPE!! often tied in multiple equalized loops when nothing else works on fixed gear) and very little duck tape (acting as a repair kit) on an accessory carabiner on my harness. This “carabiner of essentials” probably weights under 120g.

The “10 Essentials” (Here 11) is a classic list of gear that every climber or hiker should bring to the mountains to stay safe and prepared. Here’s a list commonly used in mountain climbing:

1. Navigation: Map, compass, and GPS device for route finding, especially in remote or unfamiliar areas.
2. Headlamp: A headlamp or flashlight with extra batteries, allowing visibility after dark.
3. Sun protection: Sunglasses, sunscreen, and sun-protective clothing to shield from UV exposure, especially at higher altitudes.
4. First aid kit: A well-stocked kit including basics like bandages, disinfectant, and medications to treat common injuries and ailments.
5. Knife or multi-tool: Useful for repairs, food preparation, and emergency situations.
6. Fire: Waterproof matches, a lighter, or fire starter for warmth and signaling.
7. Shelter: An emergency bivy, space blanket, or lightweight tarp to protect against cold, wind, or unexpected weather if you’re stranded.
8. Extra food: Non-perishable, high-energy snacks in case of delays or emergencies.
9. Extra water: Sufficient water, plus a water treatment method (like a filter or purification tablets) to ensure hydration.
10. Extra clothing: Layers that can be added or removed to adjust for temperature, including an insulating layer and waterproof gear.
11. Signaling device: A whistle, mirror, or personal locator beacon to help rescuers find you if you’re lost or injured.

These essentials are meant to help climbers handle unexpected situations, stay safe, and be self-reliant in the wilderness.

3- Attaching the rope to the anchor point

4- Attaching the belay system to the harness

5- Function of the belay system

5.1 Failure of the TRS Device

All devices can and have failed. This is why a backup is mandatory. Here are a few ways a device can and have failed

5.1.1 Shirt in the Device

For devices with teeth, one failure mode can be the classic “shirt in the device” where an object gets jammed between the cam and the rope. If the climber falls in this situation, it is likely that the device fails by sliding down the rope until a backup (or a ledge) is met.

5.1.2 Push on the Device

This can happen to many toothless devices. It has been discussed a lot for the Petzl Shunt. If something pushes a Shunt down during a fall (maybe a sling caught in the body of the Shunt, maybe it is the climber’s arm, maybe the climber grabs the device instinctlively), this can very well disable the device and make it slide down. If two devices are used on a single rope, the top device fails and the bottom device has no teeth, the top device can drag the bottom device and make it fail to grab. In the case of an extended top device, it could still happen in the case of a crossloaded carabiner that shortens the extension and that could make the 2 devices collide also.

5.1.3 Twisted Carabiner

For devices without teeth, one failure mode can be the classic “twisted carabiner” where the connector can twist around the device. It can defeat the device by making it impossible to rotate in the blocking orientation (Kong Backup, Camp Goblin, etc.). Also It can sometime block the cam inside from rotating in the blocking position (Petzl grigri 1, Trango Cinch, Trango Vergo).

5.1.4 Jammed Carabiner in Device

For devices without teeth, some carabiners can sometimes jam in the device in wierd ways and make the device fail to lock. This can be the case with the LOV with some connectors.

5.1.5 Device Jammed Between the Legs

This can happen with devices that need to rotate to lock (TAZ LOV, Kong Backup but also Grandwall uAscend and many non-toothed devices). If the climber does not attach the device to the chest (lets it hang between the legs), if the climber makes a move squeezing the thighs (doing a flag for example), if that clenches the device and the climber falls at that moment, it could maintain the device in this position and make the device fail.

5.1.5 The Two Devices Cancel Each Other out

This can happen with 2 devices on a single rope where the devices touch each other in a way that both get disabled by the collision. I don’t have an example that is proven to be a huge problem. But one can imagine the toothed cam of the Micro Traxion that protrudes under the device and the dented black disks on the CT RollNLock (original version, not the 2.0) that is protruding on the top of the device. If they collide with just the right pressure and position, depending on the connector and the exact direction of pull, they could theoretically cancel each other out. Extending the top device and choosing devices without protruding parts responsible of jamming the rope that face each other can mitigate this risk.

6- Medium impact forces

Typical TRS impact forces are 4 or 5kN maximum.  See 7.1 type of rope.

7- About the rope

7.1 Type of Rope

Some people swear at using dynamic ropes to limit the impact forces on TRS. But seasoned climbers sometime prefer low stretch ropes as they 1- are basically made for TRS situations in industrial settings, 2- will not strech so much that ledge falls are more likely, 3- practicing a single move is easier as the climber does not fall 10 moves lower, 4- the sawing action on sharp edges and grainy rock are less, 5- are often more durable and 6- are well waterproof if made in a polyester sheath. Also note that they are not “static”, they are “low-stretch” and will absorb the dangerous energy in a relatively mild TRS fall (compared to LRS falls).