We too often see people with seemingly less experience trying to come up with innovative ways of building Lead Rope Solo (LRS) setups and backups. While creativity and problem-solving are valuable, this approach can lead to unforeseen risks, especially without a strong foundation in tried-and-true techniques.
Shiny new gear often signals less experience, and combining that with do-it-yourself LRS setups can be a recipe for serious dangers. While it’s tempting to experiment, reinventing the wheel often exposes climbers to unknown threats that even the best equipment can’t mitigate.
One crucial consideration is backups. Slip knots, often underestimated as “training knots,” are widely used by some of the strongest LRS climbers and are considered paramount for safety. Andy Kirkpatrick, a respected voice in the climbing community, emphasizes that the only truly reliable backups are hard knots tied to the tie-in points. These provide unmatched reliability, especially in high-consequence scenarios, and remain a gold standard in LRS climbing.
It’s important to remember that there are still many unknowns in LRS setups and the ways these systems can fail. This adds even more risk to an already demanding discipline, making it critical to rely on well-tested methods and avoid unnecessary experimentation.
New methods and setups should only be explored carefully and after gaining extensive experience with established, mainstream techniques. These tried-and-tested methods are the foundation for identifying what works safely and effectively.
Before venturing into solo climbing, focus on gaining experience with partners and mentors who prioritize safety and have sound judgment. The lessons they share will teach you more than any gear or DIY system ever could.
LRS is a specialized and demanding discipline that requires respect, caution, and a commitment to learning. Starting with solid climbing fundamentals and reliable safety practices, like using hard backups, will set you on the right path to explore this unique aspect of the sport.