Introduction
Here, we delve into events from 2014 and 2016 that have shaped the discipline, showcasing remarkable achievements and advancements in safety. The Jes Meiris and Chantel Astorga record-breaking ascents of the Nose don’t have integer numbers as they were added after the initial list was made.
Rope Solo – Landmark Event #19 – 2014: Andy Kirkpatrick Publishes Me, Myself and I on LRS
2014 marked a pivotal year in the history of rope soloing, particularly in the niche of Lead Rope Solo (LRS). Andy Kirkpatrick, renowned climber and author, released an insightful article titled Me, Myself and I, diving deep into the intricacies of LRS. In this piece, Kirkpatrick shared his wealth of experience, providing practical advice, safety tips, and a philosophical perspective on the art of climbing alone.
This publication resonated widely within the climbing community, bridging the gap between seasoned rope soloists and those just beginning to explore this challenging discipline. Kirkpatrick’s ability to combine technical expertise with humor and relatable anecdotes elevated the conversation around LRS, making it more accessible while emphasizing the importance of safety and preparation.
Rope Solo – Landmark Event #19.3 – June 2014: Jes Meiris Sets Female Speed Record on The Nose
In June 2014, Jes Meiris set the fastest female ascent of The Nose on El Capitan, completing it in 27 hours and 20 minutes. Her achievement not only demonstrated the potential of Lead Rope Soloing (LRS) on big-wall climbs but also inspired climbers, especially women, to push their limits in a male-dominated field.
Meiris’s climb began on June 7 and ended by 11 p.m. the next day, surpassing a 12-year-old record set by Jacqueline Florine. Unlike Florine, who carried 70 pounds of gear, Meiris traveled light, which contributed to her speed.
Reflecting on her return to the Yosemite floor, Meiris shared her deep connection to the place, recalling her previous climbs on The Nose. Despite two falls early on, including a scare at the Boot Flake, she pressed on with caution and determination. “The solitude and the extreme environment added a unique element to the climb,” she said, highlighting the challenges of soloing without assistance.
Her decision to attempt the record was driven by a desire to push her physical limits and eliminate the need for hauling and sleeping. She also saw it as an opportunity to support the Pikes Peak Climber’s Alliance, a local organization she helped establish.
Throughout the climb, Meiris received emotional support from friends, helping her overcome moments of doubt. “The biggest challenge has been overcoming my own self-doubt,” she admitted. Her success wasn’t just a personal victory—it was a breakthrough for women in climbing, proving that with determination, any record can be broken.
Read more about her inspiring climb here.
Rope Solo – Landmark Event #19.7 – September 2014: Chantel Astorga Breaks Female Speed Record on The Nose
Just a few months after Jes Meiris’ remarkable climb, Chantel Astorga set a new women’s solo speed record on The Nose of El Capitan, completing the ascent in 24 hours and 39 minutes—just shy of the coveted sub-24-hour mark. Her climb surpassed Jes Meiris’s 27:20 record by 2 hours and 41 minutes.
Astorga’s record attempt began on September 26, and by noon, she had already passed Dolt Tower. Climbing in a combination of soloing and rope-soloing, Astorga bypassed a free solo approach, choosing instead to build anchors to ensure her safety. After a few setbacks, including a climber hijacking her rope and losing an ascender and aider, she topped out the next morning at 6:39 a.m.
Despite the new record, Astorga’s journey to sub-24 hours was fraught with challenges. A few weeks later, on October 24, she attempted a second speed ascent. On this climb, Astorga ran out of water, leading to muscle cramps and mental fatigue, which slowed her pace. Still, she managed to finish in 25:40, though she was exhausted and disoriented by the end. “It became a survival contest,” said photographer Tom Evans, who captured both of Astorga’s ascents.
Astorga, who first climbed The Nose in 2010, has a long history with the route, setting team records and refining her climbing technique. After taking two years off to focus on competitive mountain biking and other physical training, she returned to solo climbing with a renewed focus on endurance. This approach helped her complete the difficult climb at a remarkable pace.
Astorga remains humble about her achievements, noting that she could have asked for water from other teams but preferred to rely on her own preparation. “I made my decision to bring the water I did,” she said.
For more details about Chantel Astorga’s historic climb, visit this article.
Rope Solo – Landmark Event #20 – 2016: Petzl’s Groundbreaking Articles on Safer Top Rope Soloing (TRS)
In 2016, Petzl took a significant step toward promoting safety in the climbing community by releasing a series of 10 articles focused on safer Top Rope Soloing (TRS) techniques. These articles addressed critical topics such as equipment selection, system redundancy, and error prevention, providing climbers with a comprehensive guide to reducing risks associated with solo climbing.
Petzl’s initiative reflected a broader industry trend toward fostering safety awareness, particularly in rope soloing disciplines. By leveraging their expertise and reputation, Petzl empowered climbers to adopt safer practices, ensuring that solo ascents remain a source of inspiration rather than tragedy. The resources continue to serve as a valuable reference for climbers of all skill levels as of 2025!! Read them here!
Conclusion
Each of these events represents a milestone in the ever-evolving discipline of rope soloing. From groundbreaking ascents to educational advancements, these moments have shaped the way climbers approach the art of going for it alone, inspiring countless others to explore new heights—both figuratively and literally.
If you’re interested in Top Rope Solo or Lead Rope Solo climbing, I encourage you to explore my online courses, which offer the most comprehensive information on the subject. (link below)
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